Lunch, Qua An Ngan, Hanoi.

Pho is fine, but some days a guy's just gotta have rice.

Take note of the sprinkling of herbs on top; the Vietnamese are absolute fiends about fresh herbs. Our gracious host, our aunt Luningning Guest, recalled a Vietnamese guest at her home who found the beef and tomato sauce spaghetti served at her home somewhat wanting, until she got her hands on some fresh cilantro, tore it up and sprinkled it all over the noodles. Hit the spot.

Spring rolls.

Mudfish.

This is just part of the spread from Quan An Ngan, a restaurant at 18 Phan Boi Chau in Hoan Kiem District. Amazing stuff. The crabs in tamarind sauce (see above) were particularly scrumptious; you haven't lived until you've tried fresh crab drizzled in this spicy-tangy goo.