Wandering Through Hanoi's Old Quarter.

By all means, get lost in the Old Quarter. Have yourself dropped off at Hoan Kiem Lake (the beating, if wet, heart of Hanoi) and from the red bridge, cross the street and lose yourself in the maze of streets, shopping, and travel agencies you'll find there.

The Old Quarter is shaped like a triangle, with streets named after the goods sold in them (not so much now as it was several hundred years ago). The place is ancient, and the age does show in some places, but overall the impression you get is a clean albeit swarming retail area, with narrow sidewalks and persistent shopkeepers imploring you to check out their stuff; the shops are mostly full of cheap knockoffs with some real finds amidst the dross.

More images and shop recommendations after the jump.

What can you buy in the Old Quarter? Probably everything. Silk shirts, tailored suits, stuffed toys, suitcases, kitschy souvenir T-shirts, lacquerware. One afternoon isn't enough, you'll probably want to get lost here for several afternoons in succession.

Quick tip - if you want to dicker, pay in VN dong and not US dollars. This gives you a lot of latitude to talk the price down a bit. And remember to smile and be good-natured with the negotiation - the shopkeepers are hard-working folk selling real objects of value (well, some of them anyway), and smiling while you bargain makes the experience a pleasure for both of you. (More on bargaining here: Vietnam Money)

A couple of my favorite finds - I swear the list would be longer if I'd spent more time in there.

Fine Embroidery: Quoc Su. I could only take a picture of their sign card outside (embroidered, naturally) because photography isn't allowed inside. But check out their website for a sample of the really fine needlework that goes into Quoc Su's embroidered masterpieces. Embroidery is a dime a dozen in Vietnam, but Quoc Su's the place to go when you're after the real thing (and have the cash to pay for it). 2C Ly Quoc Su Street.

Quality Souvenirs (and silk ties): Hanoi Smiles. A huge assortment of silk tie/cufflink sets, and other souvenirs besides, line the walls at Hanoi Smiles. One tie/cufflink set cost about D100,000 (about five dollars), which so impressed my cousin that he bought a whole sackful to take home.

The saleslady was impressively stern with her customers, but softened up a bit when she dealt with my cousin (who is not a bad catch if you ask me, and ladies, he's single). My aunt overheard her asking Jake about what he did for a living, where he was from; small talk in a US shop, but questions of significant intent in Vietnam.

"She was hitting on you!" my aunt laughingly told my cousin as we were walking away. "And it all flew, whoosh, over your head!" Do visit Hanoi Smiles, but don't expect to get hit on - you're probably not in the same league as my cousin. Hanoi Smiles' main shop can be found at 12 Nha Tho Street.