Floating on a precariously-balanced wooden boat, apprehension sets in as your non-English speaking guide paddles the small skiff around a limestone corner. The sinister mouth of a cave swallows you into the darkness and you realize the eerie nature of the adventure at hand - welcome to Tham Kong Lo Cave.
Tham Kong Lo Cave, hidden deep in the Phu Hin Bun wilderness of central Laos, is one of Southeast Asia's geological wonders. Other-worldly stalactites, spooky limestone formations, and ceilings over 300 feet tall make this flooded cave a highlight and bragging-point for many travelers in Laos.
The Nam Hin Bun River flows through the cave, making it only accessible by small boats which must be hired from one of the river villages. Boats do stop throughout the 7 km cave, allowing travelers to explore a little on foot in the total darkness.
The river passage through the cave is also used by locals for transporting goods, but traffic or overcrowding on the inside is never a problem. Depending on the season, you most likely will not meet other travelers.
Visiting Tham Kong Lo Cave
To explore the cave, you must hire a boat from Ban Kong Lo village and float the 7 km through the cave; boatmen usually charge around US $6 per person. The long, narrow boats are tricky to balance and like the experienced men that paddle them, show their weathered age. A typical boat can carry up to three passengers plus two crewmen.
Other Tips:
- Chances are that your LED-based headlamp will prove inadequate for lighting the mammoth caverns, but it is better than nothing!
- Wear shoes that allow for scrambling on wet rocks and wading in water. Sharp rocks will make short work of your soft flip-flop sandals.
- Confirm that your boat price includes the cave entrance fee (less than US $1).
- The landscape around the villages and cave is stunning, but the bomb craters should be a reminder that millions of unexploded objects are still scattered throughout the region.
- Mosquitoes are particularly aggressive and persistent around the river; use protection. Read more about how to avoid mosquito bites.
- The boatmen are experts of their craft, but do your part by shifting around as little as possible inside of the narrow boats.
Getting to Tham Kong Lo Cave
Getting to Tham Kong Lo Cave is half the adventure and many travelers only doing the Vientiane - Vang Vieng - Luang Prabang trail miss out. Ban Khoun Kham (also known as Ban Na Hin) is settled in the beautiful Hin Bun valley and is the largest town in proximity of the cave.
From Ban Khoun Kham: The once-treacherous road to Ban Kong Lo - the village nearest to the cave - has been recently improved; the 30-mile journey from Ban Khoun Kham now takes around an hour. Plentiful motorbike taxis and sawngthaews (pick-up trucks retrofitted for passengers) are the cheapest options.
From Thailand: Many travelers crossing over from Thailand at Nakhon Phanom on the Mekong River choose to use the tranquil town of Tha Khaek as a base to explore this rural part of Laos. Regular minibuses run along the winding road to Ban Khoun Kham and take around four hours.
Accommodation
Thanks to a short mention in the guidebooks, a small trickle of backpackers do visit the cave and a few guest houses have sprang up in the surrounding villages. Sala HinBoun and Sala Kong Lor are two popular residences with rooms for around US $20.
Homestays: A more adventurous and memorable option is to sleep in a homestay in Ban Kong Lo village, only 1 km from the cave. Homestays cost around US $5 - $10 and include family-style meals. Sleeping conditions are usually rough and language is a barrier, but the chance to see how locals live is well worth the effort.
To book a homestay, just turn up in Ban Kong Lo and ask around. Someone will inevitably offer you accommodation.
The cave could be explored by a lengthy day trip from Ban Khoun Kham, but is better enjoyed with an overnight stay. Inthapanya Guesthouse in Ban Khoun Kham has an English-speaking staff and can make arrangements for you.
When to Visit Tham Kong Lo
The best time to visit Tham Kong Lo is during the dry season in Laos from November to April. Read more about the weather in Laos.