It’s an amazing sight – giant grass-covered dome-shaped mounds, many as high as 150 feet high, as far as the eye can see. “Grass-covered limestone” doesn’t begin to explain the reality of these thousands of huge mounds looming before you, in stark contrast to the flat rice paddy lands around them.
At last count, over 1,200 hills make up the “Chocolate Hills” of Bohol in the Philippines, distributed over 18 square miles in the towns of Butuan, Sagbayan, Bilar, Sierra Bollones, Valencia, and Carmen.
The grass that covers each hill turns chocolate-brown during the summer season, giving the Chocolate Hills their name.
Geologists haven’t reached a conclusive agreement as to what caused the Chocolate Hills to form, but the most popular theory suggests that the hills were lifted up from the seafloor by geological processes and weathered over millions of years into their present form.
The locals have their own “theory”: once upon a time, a giant fell in love with a village girl. The giant kidnapped the girl, but she died en route. The giant’s tears solidified into the Chocolate Hills. The end.
What to See, Where to Stay
A restaurant, resort, and view deck have been built on two of the area’s highest hills, all the better to serve the area’s tourists. This complex is located in Carmen town.
On the higher of the two hills, 214 steps up from ground level, the observation deck offers a great view that is particularly spectacular during sunset. Admission to the deck costs P10, or about 20 US cents; it’s open from 6am-9pm daily.
The Chocolate Hills Resort, a government-run hostel on the other hill, is rather run-down (a result of its unfinished renovation), and definitely not recommended.
11 miles away, the Sagbayan Peak resort in neighboring Sagbayan town also offers a great view of the Hills from its viewing deck, not to mention a glimpse of the sea between Bohol and Cebu. The resort also has a restaurant, a tarsier sanctuary, a butterfly dome, and a children’s park.
Most visitors prefer to stay at Tagbilaran, making a day trip of their visit to the Chocolate Hills. The official city government’s website lists a fair selection of backpacker and budget accommodations.
How to get there
When in the island capital of Tagbilaran, go to the bus terminal in Dao and ride a headed for Carmen. The Chocolate Hills complex is 30 miles away from Tagbilaran. Tell the driver to stop at the Chocolate Hills complex, then walk ten minutes down the road to the viewing deck.
To get back to Tagbilaran, go back the way you came and ride a bus to Tagbilaran, If you miss the last bus at 4 p.m., you might want to risk hiring the “habal-habal” (motorcycle taxis) going back to the city.
If you prefer to see the Chocolate Hills from Sagbayan Peak, hire a Sagbayan-bound taxi, bus or “v-hire” (van for rent) at Tagbilaran City and ask to be dropped off at Sagbayan Peak.
Seeing the Rest of the Island
Bohol has been relatively untouched by modern civilization, but recent developments may change all that. With the Chocolate Hills as its centerpiece, Bohol is gearing up to be Southeast Asia’s next big ecotourism destination.
Once you’re done with your Chocolate Hills daytrip, the rest of Bohol and its nearby islands offer so much more: white sand beaches, nature tripping, and other adventures. Start with these resorts on Bohol, and see where you can go from there.
- Alona Palm Beach –great snorkeling and diving facilities, and ideal for tourists seeking an experience up close with dolphins. The resort also has a offers a 9-hole mini golf course, apart from the usual restaurants and bars.
- Ananyana Resort – a quiet resort in Panglao with diving facilities, great food, and only 20 minutes from Tagbilaran.
- Flushing Meadows Resort – world-class resort facilities set along the clean white beach of Panglao Island off Bohol.
